“Mike Sula says Mordecai is an experience worth braving the Wrigleyville crowds for. Matthias Merges’s project inside Hotel Zachary is a refreshing addition that brings fine dining and a seriously impressive whiskey collection to the neighborhood. For fans who want more than an Old Style, the cranberry gin rickey is “tall, pleasingly bitter” and “fresh as your mother.” The food menu is executed by Jared Wentworth and includes an “intensely and vividly colored” salad of green romanesco cauliflower with sweet-and-sour pickled veggies, curried farro, and harissa-whipped aioli. Emerald-colored risotto supports fatty porchetta and carrot sticks, while the “explosive juiciness” of a goat bratwurst “warrants the use of safety goggles.” Capping off the meal is an “arresting” chocolate-Fernet sundae that “still haunts [Sula].” [Reader]”

Read the full article at Chicago Eater.